It’s late afternoon as we found ourselves just north of the bustle that is downtown Laguna. Stepping into the iconic establishment, we were entranced by rich blue surroundings. Eclectic tunes wafted throughout Royal Hawaiian’s infamous bar and lounge as we were seated by the patio, the after-work commute gradually crawling past our view of PCH. A ceiling adorned in woven baskets caught our attention, reinforcing the notion that this upgrade was less kitsch and more class, per our chat with Chef and Co-owner Maro (Mariano) Molteni,
“We just wanted a sophisticated look with clean lines, but it was important that we kept the nostalgia in place, too. We came up with the idea of showcasing and spotlighting all the totems that have gathered over all these years and putting them up in their own frames. Now they get to look down on everyone eating and drinking here. And, we brought in live plant walls and real flowers, adding a beautiful, authentic touch to our “tropical” restaurant.” The totems did appear content with their new perspective.
No meal is truly complete without Royal Hawaiian’s signature Lapu-Lapu; a recipe revived from its original incarnation. Boozy as ever with a triple dose of rum, fresh juices and shaved ice could not muddle its hypnotic effect. We decided to tread lightly through dinner or else our cocktail would single-handedly do us in.
We continued our tropical staycation with house sashimi. Typically served with halibut, the choice of fish is between Chef Maro and what fresh catch is delivered to his kitchen. A chopsticks-friendly starter, we noted a toned down horseradish dressing that allowed the seafood’s delicate flavor to shine. Our side of shaved purple carrot, yellow beet and fennel provided a cooling crunch.
Chimichurri was the unifier in Royal Hawaiian’s mesquite grilled sausage caracol. We said “Mahalo” to the kitchen’s suggestion for an additional side of this herbal nectar to dip our caracol into. Labyrinth-like in presentation, an oasis of sweet potato puree prevented our pork from becoming too salty. Charred onions, okra and peppers balanced out our meat-centric starter.
A wild caught Pacific sea bass had us hooked from our first nibble with flecks of finishing salt perfectly seasoning it. Crunchy green tea soba noodles were reminiscent of a dish we usually request at Chinese restaurants. We alternated between hot and cold with raw celery root dressed in citrus. To counter our surf entrée, their wood-grilled teriyaki rib eye was expertly prepared to medium-rare; we expected no less from Chef Maro’s grilling savvy. It was actually upon learning that Royal Hawaiian’s kitchen was already outfitted with ventilation hoods to accommodate a wood grill that Maro and his brother Martin agreed to take over as full-time owners and operators.
The aroma of grilled banana bread was already intoxicating but combining with house-made vanilla ice cream was cool indulgence upon warm indulgence. Reminding us of tres leches cake, its lighter density allowed us to polish off much of dessert. We learned later that Molteni’s formal training included a background in pastry, a skill that demands attention to detail.
Although the brothers Molteni have modernized an Orange County mainstay, they continue to pay tribute to Royal Hawaiian’s iconic roots through thoughtful cuisine and an updated tiki vibe. Staycation at Maro and Martin’s version of Aloha.
Royal Hawaiian, 331 N. Coast Hwy., Laguna Beach. 949.715.1470. RoyalHawaiianLB.com